Botswana and Victoria Falls 2018
The word safari originated from the word “safar”, an Arabic verb meaning “to make a journey.” From that come the noun “safariya,” or journey and then safari which is a Swahili synonym of the Arabic version. Whatever, we are going on one.
However, to get there from here is quite the journey: a van to Chicago, wait three hours, 7 hour flight to Amsterdam, 4 hour layover and an 11 hour flight to Johannesburg. Fortunately, the overnight hotel was on the airport property and we plopped into bed after checking in. Whoever said ‘It’s the journey, not the destination’ might have to try this.
July 29, 2018
Our two hour morning flight is to Maun, Botswana. The city of 55,000 is a gateway to the two areas we want to visit: the Okavango Delta and Chobe 
National Park. They are reputed to be the best wildlife viewing areas in the world...very limited tourism and tremendous stretches of open land. The country outlawed the hunting of any animal in 2014. In addition, 39% of Botswana is either National Parks or Game Reserves, land put aside by native tribes.
The airport in Maun mostly services single engine aircraft. Our group of nine boarded one of them and after a short 20 minute flight we landed 
on a dirt runway near our first camp. Prior to landing, the safari vehicles that picked us up drove the runway just in case any elephants, giraffes, lions or whatever were lingering nearby. We did not see any but lots of elephant dung showed they had been there recently and often.
For the next eight days, we will be spending time at four different safari camps operated by Desert and Delta. They are the best in the area. Their website has some beautiful photographs of the properties.
On our 30 minute drive to Camp Xakanaka (taka naka) in the Moremi Game Reserve, we had our first sightings of hippos, baboons, kudos, elephants, and giraffes. Kind of like
a safari before our first game drive. With the absence of hunting, animals have acclimated to the fact that humans are not to be feared. In addition, the delta has an enormous wildlife population because of the tremendous supply of food and water.
Camp Xakanaka has 12 cabins built on platforms. Tonight, we are the only ones there. Each of the camps have a staff of thirty people. The service ratio is crazy. We will discover that all the camps have the most wonderful, caring, warm people anyone could ask for. Not just because it’s their job, it is just the way they are.
We will get accustomed to the pace of camp life for the next eight days and nights. Wake up is at 6:00, breakfast at 6:30, game drive at 7:00, lunch and siesta (relaxation time) at 11:30, high tea at 3:00, afternoon game drive at 3:30, sundowners and snacks out in the bush at 6:30, drinks and social time at 7:00, dinner at 7:30, lights out whenever.
Our first game drive is this afternoon. Wildlife is everywhere. It is difficult to go one minute without seeing something. We just saw our first cape buffaloes in the wild and a massive elephant. They can get to 16-17 feet tall and weight over 13,000 pounds. This was one big boy. Along with many herds of gazelles, there was a pack of four wild dogs that walked within 
10 feet of our Toyota Land Cruiser. Our guides said they are all over the place, but sometimes tough to see because they are always moving.
It cools off quickly in the late afternoon. We are here in their winter where rain is sparse and temperatures are more moderate than the rainy, humid, hot summers. Daytimes are in the low to mid 80’s; night times are in the 50’s.
The camp is surrounded by an electrified fence connected to wooden posts, but only at the top. It is there to keep out the elephants. Anything else can enter under the wiring or through the open gate. Every night for the last several weeks at least one hippo has come into camp. Last night, so did a waterbuck, a leopard and one of the guides thought he heard a hyena. Sleepwalking is discouraged. Matter of fact, when it is dark outside, it is required to have a guide walk you to your room. Beautiful evening with a star filled sky and full moon.
At 3:00 in the morning, we awakened to a hippo bellowing. It was so loud and clear, we thought it was on the front porch. We knew we were not in Kansas anymore.
July 30, 2018
This morning one of the staff called out to wake us and another walked us to breakfast. It is very chilly. A real nicety is the hot water bottle (bush babies) and blanket provided for each of us when we 
get into the vehicles. Every game drive has two vehicles and two guides/trackers for the nine of us. The guides at Xakanaka are Harry and Aaron. Wonderful, knowledgable guys who were great with the boys.
There are so many animals here rather than repeating the same things, I thought the highlight(s) of each drive might be a little more interesting. Early this morning we came across two male lions. The power 
they exude when their shoulders stride forward is mesmerizing. One of them passed within a few feet of our truck. Mark could have reached out and touched it.
Harry said as big as these were, south of us in the Kalahari they are huge. The lack of water there along with the plentiful food supply is the reason why. For fluids, the blood of the prey is consumed and they grow inordinately large.
In short fashion, we were on the trail of a female leopard and her cub. The guides are incredible. From a footprint, not only can they tell the type of animal, but whether it is male or female, its size, the direction they are headed, how long ago it passed by (15 minutes, 2 hours or 4 days). Remarkable.
Fletcher spotted the young 
female with her cub. We were giddy and watched them for a good long time. What a thrill.
Botswana is a land-locked country bordered by Zimbabwe, Namibia, South Africa, and at the extreme northeastern tip, Zambia. The landscape is mostly flat. The size is about the same as France or Texas. Kalahari sands cover approximately 85% of the country and the Kalahari Desert itself dominates the south and west. The climate is sub-tropical and semi-arid.
Unlike neighboring countries, Botswana has never been under the direct rule of a colonial influence. However, in the 1880s, the country’s chiefs sought British protection to prevent the Boers incorporating the country into South Africa. The new protectorate was called Bechuanaland.
Complete independence was gained in 1966. At that time Botswana was the second poorest country in the world. Shortly thereafter, however, huge reserves of diamonds were discovered and along with tourism this country of 2 1/2 million is extremely stable.
This afternoon we headed out to see hippos and crocs. It is very warm without a cloud in the sky. We came across a herd of cape buffalo. Riley and I guessed at least 500, probably more. Our guide said in a group they are very passive but are the most dangerous of animals if a person is out of their car or if the animal is alone. They have a kind of wild look in their eye, not the friendly gaze you feel from a giraffe or gazelle. No one left the vehicle.
There are huge termite mounds everywhere. The undergound labyrinths
extend out an additional 20-30 yards. During the evening hours aardvarks come in an invade the mounds. Once the termites move out, snakes move in and mongoose come to hunt them. The weasel-like critters have a tail as long as their body. To distract the snake, the mongoose raises its tail, moves it around and while the snake’s attention is diverted, bites his throat and kills it.
On our way back to camp we saw a hyena carrying the bloody carcass of a small impala. Tracks nearby suggested it was killed by a leopard and then stolen by the hyena. We tried to follow it but to no avail.
At camp, the boys taught TK, one of the staff, how to play some games we brought along. Linda taught TK how to play King’s Corners. Harrison, Riley and I played chess. As the nights went on the boys played a lot of monopoly. Bennett and I battled Fletcher and Sara in cribbage.
One of the nice traditions every night before dinner, part of the staff would gather and sing a couple of native songs.
July 31, 2018
Tuesday morning is clear 
and crisp. The light falling on the bush creates shadows among the bushes and trees that line the sand and dirt trails. Fairy tale like.
After touring a bit we arrived at the airport, not to check in or get a seat assignment but to clear the tiny airstrip of any animals lingering there or simply passing through.
Last night we had four hippos in camp. Two parked themselves in front of one of the cabin’s steps which quite rightly delayed one of the arriving guests.
We are going to miss Xakanaka. The rooms were delightful. The food wonderful...and best of all, the sweet people who made us welcome and treated us like family. In particular we will miss our guide Harry with his lilting Botswanan accent that pronounces zebra (zebra as in Debra) and hyenas (heinous). Quite charming.
A short flight and drive to Leroo La Tau (paw of the lion) Lodge. Gorgeous property, again with 12 rooms and a large, friendly staff. Leroo La Tau sits on a 15 meter high cliff overlooking the Boteti River. From our balconies we can enjoy the panoramic spectacle of elephants bathing while zebras and wildebeest drink and crocodiles watch.
The game drive this 
afternoon along the river was filled with zebras and wildebeests. This park alone is home to 30,000 zebras and 10,000 wildebeests. The zebra is the national animal of Botswana. They are very alert and when passing by, they turn and look directly at you. Very cool.
Crocodiles are scattered along the riverbanks. They kill by grabbing their victims and drowning them. Because they have no tongues, the preferred method is to store the kill, let it rot, and then consume. Essentially, they tear and swallow.
The river area is open 
and beautiful. We saw thousands of animals including an elephant taking a mud bath. Returning to camp a group of 30-40 elephants were climbing up the hill from the river.
As we got closer 
to camp, the staff had set up a bonfire and prepared sundowners and snacks for us as we watched the sun set.
August 1, 2018
On our side of the river is a tribal reserve which includes a native village of about 1,000 people. Mostly they graze cattle on the arid land.
As we crossed the river into the National Park, our guide immediately found fresh sets of tracks for two cheetahs. We spent the next two hours looking for them to no avail. The area is so vast it is almost random luck to find the cagey cats. The hunt was exciting, however.
While driving 
in the park we spotted two ostriches. Their size is very impressive, but with their built-in diffidence, it is difficult to get close.
We stopped on the way back to lunch on a bluff overlooking the river and watched 20 hippos at play. Mark loves hippos and was in heaven as they snorted and bobbed around.
Lunch and siesta time, then back out into the bush. Along the river we were entertained by a large bull elephant drinking and washing himself. After 25 minutes he crossed the river, walked into a mud 
pot and gave himself a mud bath. After exiting the pit, he found a short stump and stopped to give his feet and ankles a scratch. Quite entertaining. Shortly thereafter, we found him atop the bluff, scratching the rest of himself against a tree. Fun to see.
We crisscrossed the the park looking for two mother lions and their six cubs or the two cheetahs. Sadly, they did not want to be found. Maybe tomorrow morning before the plane to Camp Okavango.
August 2, 2018
On our morning drive we saw a number of jackals, kind of a good sized dog. We are looking for cats, but none to be seen. The valley was full of zebra, gazelles and wildebeests, however. It is a beautiful day again.
After a 50 minute flights we 
arrived at Camp Okavango, set on a island deep in the delta. On our afternoon boat ride in the river channel we saw a one year old crocodile lounging in the reeds. The odds of him avoiding predators to get to that age are small. Once born, the mother leaves and they are on their own. If lucky they can live to 150.
This morning an old bull elephant had come down to the river to drink and eat the soft plant growth along the banks. Elephants grow 6 sets of teeth over their lifetime. Once the last set falls out is is damaged, they have a difficult time surviving. Soft food and solitaire are what remains.
We saw a sitatunga which really excited our driver. Actually, we saw three of these 
antelope today. Supposedly, they are rare to view. Couple of weeks ago, a German man flew to Botswana and spent six days at this camp just for the opportunity to see one. I hope he did.
The camp is very rustic. Rather what one imagines when mentally bringing up images of Africa. Another beautiful sunset as we sipped beverages, our sundowners, floating on a pond in the Okavango Delta.
The delta is one of the world’s largest inland water systems, the only inland delta of its kind. It spans over 16,000 kilometers and supports a staggering variety of animal, plant, fish and birdlife.
The Okavango Delta owes its existence to rainfall in the Angolan highlands. The rainy season begins in November and the floodwaters begin their long journey downstream. Because of the gentle slope of the Delta basin, the floods take arounds six months to make their way from Angola, hence the Delta reaches its peak size in the dry, winter months. It is a UNESCO Heritage site.
August 3, 2018
Our 15 minute morning boat ride took us to a larger delta island for a walking tour. We were a smidge concerned as to whether this was really a good idea. But we figured they can’t lose too many tourists or they will get a bad reputation.
After a short stroll we came upon a herd of cape buffalo. Thank goodness it was not a single animal. The guide said they are not dangerous if in a herd (easy for him to say), but if solitary, they will charge without warning, full out. Unlike lions and elephants who do fake charges, if one of these guys is after you, be prepared to kiss it goodbye. Still, when the herd is 35 yards away, it is a bit disconcerting.
We saw hippos bathing
30 yards from us. On land, these things can run at 25 mph. Remarkable. We found a female lion lying on a slight rise viewing the herd of buffalo and a group of gazelle. The lioness was 75 yards from us. Tizzar, our guide, said with cats, if they see you and come to investigate, the best plan is to stay still. They may fake charge or roar or come right next to you but will not attack or maul you. Every guide had stories of this happening. I am not sure if filling one’s shorts changes that equation. But do not run or it is over. Thank goodness we did not have to find out.
I always find it curious the trust we place with people we have never met and will probably never see again while on vacation.
On our way back to the boat, a huge warthog burst out of the brush 10-15 yards away from us. Great morning. On the bush walks, everyone walks single file so the group looks larger to animals as they view us. Good strategy, I guess. At least it worked today.
This afternoon 
we passed a massive crocodile in the channel. Tizzar thought him to be 16-17 feet in length and about 80 years old. A croc of this size can take down an elephant.
In the old days, 
river navigation was done by dugout canoe, either paddling or poling. For us, we went out in fiberglass canoes with one of the staff poling through the shallow water.
We saw a mother elephant with her baby wading through the marsh. The baby suckled its mother. It was so quiet here you could hear the elephant
walking 100 yards away.
Returning, the staff had set up a picnic table with snacks and sundowners as we watched another magnificent sunset.
August 4, 2018
Today, we fly to our last camp, Savute, in Chobe National Park, home of a famous lion pride and the largest concentration of elephants (140,000) in the world. The flights have taken us over a great portion of this enchanting landscape, both desert and delta.
Some years ago, the government decided not to put blacktop roads into this area in order not to spoil the natural wonder of it. Visitors here number in the thousands each year unlike an accessible park like Yellowstone which attracts 3 million plus.
Our game drive this afternoon featured an area much more open than the previous ones we have visited. We passed a bathing elephant who came so close to our truck, we could have reached out and petted it.
Lucky us, nine lions were 
still in the same area they were spotted this morning. They were drowsy with sleep. It is stunning to be this close, a few feet away. This is part of a 17 member pride featured in a National Geographic documentary series titled “Savage Kingdom” (Unbelievable viewing, but not for the faint of heart).
An older female, our guide 
estimated about age 18, had a substantial cut on her side, possibly from a warthog tusk or fighting over territory with another lion.
These animals are magnificent, whether alone or in a group. During mating season they are sexually active every 10-15 minutes around the clock for several days. Pretty impressive.
What a day. This evening we dined on a platform overlooking our camp’s waterhole. Several elephants appeared almost as apparitions. So quiet, we could hear them talking to each other...quite a magical place.
August 5, 2018
Overnight we heard lions roaring and elephants trumpeting. Our guide, Metal, said the poor sighted elephants probably blundered into a pride’s area and the disturbance was on. It was undoubtedly some distance from our camp, but it seemed close.
Out to see the lions again, only this time there was an extra male alongs with three 1-year olds. There are five cubs in this pride but they have been 
well hidden and we have yet to see them. The lions were active, pouncing on each other and several were playing on a fallen tree. So enjoyable just to watch them.
We shortly came upon a family of elephants walking a trail to a waterhole. 25 in all piled into the water and literally frolicked with pleasure. Babies were rolling in the water, adults spraying water from their trunks all over themselves and drinking their fill.
One youngster had the lower part of his trunk missing. Our guide guessed it had been bitten off by a croc. A two week old baby rolled over completely submerged and loved every minute of it. We were all mesmerized, particularly Lisa and Sara, who are elephant aficionados.
The lions we heard this morning were discovered fairly close by and we found four good sized males ages 4-5 lounging 2x2 under the trees. They are so beautiful to watch. Older ones live to be about 18 years so these were fairly young.
On our way to watch sunset we found four very young hyenas ages 2 1/2 to 4 months. They are born black and start turning tan in color
with the young ones having spots. They were under a bush near an abandoned termite mound that had been dug out by elephants and the two youngest scampered underground when they felt danger approaching.
They grow to be about 70 pounds and scavenge primarily at night able to smell dead food 3 miles away.
After a dinner by candlelight watching elephants come to the camp waterhole, one of our guides walked us back to our room. The camp has had a regular leopard night visitor, so discretion was warranted.
Linda and I discussed whether we enjoyed Kenya 21 years ago or Botswana better. Kenya is more open with its Mara and Serengeti plains, sort of like the movie Out of Africa, but it is difficult to choose. Botswana is semi-arid and Kenya more temperate. Kind of like picking between Florida and Arizona.
August 6
Just a leisurely drive in the early morning light. A few groups of impalas scattered about just for the ambience. These eight days have been almost dreamlike. The camps have been a true delight, even 
though each is very different. The pace of each day and the wonderful caring people are a special treat.
Staff members, of course, are taught to be courteous, the warmth we encountered from everyone is just who they are. It really is like spending time with family far away from home.
Flying from Savute, we are reminded how natural this area remains. There are no concrete or blacktop roads for miles in every direction. The distance from here to Maun is about 100 miles. The “road” is all sand and travel time is 6+ hours
to the outskirts of the city, more if there is 4-legged traffic on the road.
We landed in Kesane near the border, cleared customs and entered Zimbabwe where we waited 2 1/2 hours to clear customs there. Almost a disaster as we had to pay for temporary visas in cash and scrambled to come up with $270 for the nine of us. No ATMs. Thank goodness Linda was talking to a guide from another group who said if we declared ourselves as a family the fee was $20 per person less.
Another hour by car and we 
arrived at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. The city itself has a population of 45,000 and is inside a national park. Zimbabwe had been known as Southern Rhodesia in the old colonial days, Zambia, to the north, was called Northern Rhodesia. Elections were held two weeks ago after a military coup ousted President Robert Mugabe. He is 94 and had been in office since independence is 1980. Unemployment is Zimbabwe is 90%.
August 7, 2018
On
e of the unique trees of Africa is the baobab. No good for wood because of their fibrous interior, they grow one meter wider every 100 years and can live to 4,000 years. This one is 18 meters around at the base.
This morning we visited the falls. It is a magnificent thing, one of the seven natural wonders of the world. Named by the local as ‘Musi-0a-Tunya’ or ‘The Smoke that Thunders’, the falls measure
approximately one mile across with a drop of over 300 feet. The volume of water makes them the largest in the world.
We have a two hour walking tour this morning on the Zimbabwe side of the river.
Thank goodness rain jackets are provided. The ever present mist makes it appear to be raining. Geologically, the falls are stupendous. They are so wide and the mist so constant it is impossible to see the entirety of them from any single vantage spot. What a thrill to be here. The sound is thunderous and when you get to one of the close-up viewing points, it is almost impossible to hear any conversation.
Dr. David Livingston, 
a Scottish Congregationalist medical missionary with the London Missionary Society came across the falls in 1855 and had the good sense and humility to name them after his queen rather than himself.
In the afternoon we boarded the Ra Ikane, a small luxury cruise boat, outfitted in exquisite detail and period decor to the ambience of a bygone era, and cruised the mighty Zambezi River. More hippos and crocs plus an unexpected treat. We saw an elephant enter the water
on one side of the river and swim across. Most of the time he was completely submerged save for his trunk sticking out and acting as a snorkel. The river is wide and the current strong. But swim he did and exited the other steep bank with ease. The agility of something so large almost has to be seen to be believed.
This has been another
beautiful and remarkable day and to spend all this time together with our family is beyond special. A trip of a lifetime for sure.
One last dinner and we pack for home.
August 8, 2018
From the time we were picked up at the lodge and delivered to the airport in Victoria Falls to the arrival back home measured 38 hours. Exhaustion with exhilaration thrown in.
What an adventure.
July 27, 2018
